A Shirt, As Form / かたちとしてのシャツ

A Shirt, As Form / かたちとしてのシャツ

A Shirt, As Form


"かたちとしてのシャツ"


refomedを象徴するアイテムのひとつに、独自のパターンによって形づくられたシャツがある。その代表が、ブランドの定番として継続して展開している WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT である。22SSに登場して以来、このシャツは継続品番としてだけでなく、refomedのものづくりの輪郭を静かに示す一着として位置づけられてきた。

One of refomed’s signature pieces is a shirt defined by the brand’s unique pattern-making approach. Among them, the WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT stands as a long-standing staple within the collection. Since its introduction in the Spring/Summer 2022 season, the shirt has remained a continuous style, serving not only as a permanent fixture in the lineup but also as a piece that quietly embodies the essence of refomed’s approach to garment making.




このシャツを特徴づけるのは、大きく設計されたアームホールである。その寸法は、一般的なメンズのコートにも通じるほどゆったりと取られており、シャツでありながら軽い羽織りのような感覚を持っている。インナーの上に着るだけでなく、さまざまな衣服の上から包み込むように羽織ることができる。その構造には、シャツという日常的な衣服の役割を少しずらしながら、着方の幅を広げていくrefomedらしい感覚が表れている。

What defines this shirt is its generously proportioned armholes. Their dimensions are closer to those typically found in a men's coat, giving the garment the feel of a light outer layer despite being a shirt. It can be worn not only over a simple base layer, but also draped comfortably over a variety of garments. This construction subtly shifts the conventional role of a shirt, expanding the possibilities of how it can be worn. In doing so, it reflects refomed’s distinctive approach—reconsidering everyday garments and creating new ways to engage with them.


また、WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRTは、シーズンごとにさまざまな生地で展開されてきた。かたちは変わらなくても、素材が変わることで、落ち方や膨らみ、輪郭の見え方は少しずつ異なってくる。同じ設計のなかに、その都度新しい表情が宿る。その繰り返しによって、このシャツは定番でありながら、固定されたものではなく、素材との関係のなかで更新され続ける存在になっている。

The WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT has also been developed in a variety of fabrics throughout the seasons. While its form remains unchanged, each material brings a different character to the garment—altering the way it drapes, holds volume, and defines its silhouette.

Within the same pattern, new expressions emerge with every iteration. Through this continual process, the shirt remains a staple not because it is fixed, but because it evolves. Its identity is constantly renewed through its relationship with the materials from which it is made.


RESH-028 | WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT



その定番に対して、新たに加わるのが WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT、通称「猫背シャツ」である。これは単なる派生型ではなく、refomedがこれまで見つめてきた身体の癖や、働くことのなかで生まれる姿勢の変化を、より直接的にかたちへと置き換えた一着である。

Joining this long-standing staple is the new WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT, informally known as the “Hunched Shirt.” Rather than being a simple variation of the original, this piece translates into form the physical habits and postural shifts that refomed has long observed. It is a garment shaped by the subtle changes that emerge through work and repetition, expressing more directly the relationship between the body and the act of labor.



RESH-030 | WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT



発想の起点にあるのは、長い時間をかけて同じ作業に向き合ってきた職人の背中である。そこにあるのは、ただ大きく力強い背中ではない。ひとつの方向へ意識を向け続けることで生まれる、静かで繊細な緊張を帯びた背中である。日々の反復や積み重ねのなかで、少しずつ身体に残っていく姿勢や癖。refomedは、そうした身体の変化を欠点ではなく、時間の蓄積によって現れるひとつの造形として捉えている。

The starting point for this piece was the back of a craftsman who has spent years devoted to the same work. What emerges there is not simply a broad or powerful back, but one that carries a quiet and delicate tension—formed through sustained focus in a single direction. Through daily repetition and years of accumulated experience, subtle postures and physical habits become etched into the body. Rather than viewing these changes as imperfections, refomed sees them as a form shaped by the passage of time—an expression of accumulated labor, experience, and dedication made visible through the body itself.





WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRTは、その感覚をパターンへと落とし込んだものである。身体が内側へ沈み込むような構造を意識して設計されており、着たときに背中に独特の余白が生まれる。姿勢よく立った状態では、その余白がわずかな違和感として見えてくるが、その違和感こそがこのシャツの輪郭をつくっている。一般的なコクーンシルエットと近接する印象を持ちながらも、ここで重要なのは単なる丸みではない。背中に与えた分量が、身体の姿勢と重なり合うことで独特な輪郭を生むところに、このシャツらしさがある。

The WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT is a direct translation of this idea into pattern and form. It is designed with a structure that allows the body to settle inward, creating a distinctive sense of volume and space across the back when worn. When standing upright, this excess volume appears almost as a subtle irregularity. Yet it is precisely this slight sense of tension and imbalance that defines the character of the shirt. While its silhouette may recall a cocoon shape at first glance, the intention is not simply to create softness or roundness. What makes this garment unique is the way the volume built into the back interacts with the wearer's posture. As the body inhabits the garment, the silhouette shifts and settles, producing a distinctive outline that is inseparable from the posture it was designed to reflect.





また、このシャツはハンガーに掛かった状態と、実際に身体に着られた状態とで印象が大きく異なる。置かれた状態ではやや不自然にも見えるそのかたちが、袖を通すことで身体と結びつき、自然な説得力を持ちはじめる。衣服が身体を整えるというより、身体の癖や傾きと重なりながら、はじめてかたちが完成していく。その感覚のなかに、理想的な身体へ服を合わせるのではなく、すでに癖を持った現実の身体を起点に衣服を考える、refomedの視点が表れている。

The impression of this shirt changes significantly between its state on a hanger and when it is worn on the body. What may appear somewhat unusual or even unresolved when displayed on its own begins to reveal a natural sense of purpose once the sleeves are inhabited. Rather than shaping the body into an ideal form, the garment comes into its own through its interaction with the wearer’s posture, habits, and subtle inclinations. Its shape is not fully realized until it enters into dialogue with the body itself. Within this approach lies a perspective that is central to refomed: instead of designing clothing for an idealized body, the brand begins with the reality of the body as it is—marked by repetition, shaped by experience, and defined by its own unique habits and characteristics.

定番である WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT と比べると、WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT の肩幅や身幅、アームホールは比較的スタンダードな設計である。ただ、その素直な寸法のなかに背中の造形的な違和感が静かに潜んでいる。WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRTが大きなボリュームによってシャツの役割を広げていく一着だとすれば、WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRTは、より身近なシャツの輪郭を保ちながら身体との関係を少しだけずらしていく一着だといえる。

Compared to the WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT, the WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT is built with relatively standard proportions in its shoulder width, body width, and armholes. Yet within these familiar dimensions, a subtle sculptural tension is quietly embedded into the back of the garment. If the WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT expands the conventional role of a shirt through its generous volume and distinctive proportions, the WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT takes a different approach. Retaining a silhouette that feels closer to an everyday shirt, it gently shifts the relationship between garment and body. Rather than redefining the shirt through scale, it reconsiders it through posture—creating a piece that feels familiar at first glance, yet reveals a distinctly different character once worn.






27SSでは、この猫背シャツも複数の生地で展開されている。素材が変わることで、落ち感や膨らみ、背中の見え方もそれぞれ異なり、同じ構造のなかにさまざまな表情が生まれる。ここでもまた、refomedの衣服は固定された完成形ではなく、素材と構造の関係のなかで、その都度立ち上がるものとして捉えられている。

For the Spring/Summer 2027 season, the WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT is offered in a range of different fabrics. As the materials change, so too do the garment’s drape, volume, and the way the back is expressed, allowing distinct variations to emerge from the same underlying structure. Each fabric reveals a different aspect of the design, giving rise to new expressions while preserving its essential form. In this sense, refomed’s garments are never conceived as fixed or final objects. Instead, they are understood as forms that continually emerge through the relationship between material and construction—taking on a new presence each time that relationship is reconfigured.

refomedにおけるシャツは、単なるベーシックな日常着ではない。働くこと、繰り返すこと、身体が少しずつ癖づいていくこと。そうした日々の積み重ねによって生まれる姿勢の変化を、一枚の布の上に写し取ろうとする試みである。WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRTがその考えを広く示してきたとすれば、WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRTは、その感覚をさらに身体の内側へと深めた一着である。

一枚で違和感が様になる。その感覚は、単に新しい形をつくろうとした結果ではない。日常のなかで身体に残っていく痕跡を、衣服として静かにかたちにしているからである。refomedのシャツは、装うためのものという以上に、身体が過ごしてきた時間を輪郭として見せる試みなのである。

For refomed, a shirt is never simply a basic everyday garment. It is an attempt to trace the subtle transformations that emerge through work, repetition, and the gradual habits the body acquires over time. If the WRIST PATCH WIDE SHIRT has served as a broad expression of this idea, then the WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT carries it further inward, bringing the relationship between garment and body into sharper focus.

Its sense of character lies in the way a subtle irregularity feels entirely natural when worn. This is not the result of pursuing novelty for its own sake, but of quietly giving form to the traces that everyday life leaves on the body. More than something to be worn, refomed’s shirts are an exploration of how time can become visible. They seek to reveal, through silhouette and structure, the accumulation of labor, repetition, and experience that gradually shape the body over the years.

 

- Designer’s Comment -


各職場や現場で働く職人たちを見ている中で、熟練された背中というのは、ただ大きく逞しいだけではないと感じています。

長い時間、同じ作業を積み重ねてきた人の背中には、ひとつの方向を向き続けているような集中力を切らさない繊細さと美しさが宿っているように思います。

そうした身体の変化は、一瞬でできるものではなく毎日の積み重ねや同じ作業を続けてきた時間の中で少しずつ形づくられていきます。

WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT は、そうした身体の痕跡や積み重なった時間のかたちを一枚の布に落とし込もうとして生まれたシャツです。

Through observing craftspeople across different workplaces and job sites, I have come to feel that a seasoned back is not defined simply by its size or strength.

There is a particular beauty in the backs of those who have devoted themselves to the same work over many years—a quiet sensitivity and unwavering focus that seems to come from continually facing a single direction.

These physical changes do not emerge overnight. They are shaped gradually through repetition, through the accumulation of daily labor, and through the passage of time spent refining the same craft.

The WRIST PATCH SLOUCH SHIRT was created as an attempt to translate those traces of the body and the form of accumulated time into a single garment.

ブログに戻る